Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these stories and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
